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MS Plan A: Numerical Modeling of Wave Dynamics at Ulupa’u Crater: Validation of SWAN and XBeach with Field Observations
April 24 @ 8:30 am - 9:30 am
Camryn Dillon
Masters Student
Department of Ocean & Resources Engineering
University of Hawai’i at Manoa
**This defense will be held in person (POST 708) and Zoom**
Meeting ID: 858 0966 0255
Passcode: CamrynMS
Zoom link: https://hawaii.zoom.us/j/85809660255
This study aims to validate the SWAN and nonhydrostatic XBeach models by comparing simulated wave transformations to field observations collected offshore of Ulupaʻu Crater, O’ahu. The models were calibrated using site-specific bathymetry and wave conditions to replicate observed wave behavior. The accuracy of each model was assessed using spectral analysis and time-series comparisons with ADCP and pressure sensor data. This work explores the effectiveness of nesting SWAN with XBeach to model wave dynamics across large coastal domains. The validation provides a reliable baseline for simulating proposed artificial reefs under the Rapid Resilient Reefs for Coastal Defense (R3D) project. Future applications will evaluate reef effectiveness in wave attenuation and shoreline protection, supporting designs that balance hydrodynamic performance and ecological function.